Chonky Yarn Cable Knit Cardi Pattern

Chonky Yarn Cable Knit Cardi Pattern

This gorgeous cable knit cardigan is about to be a winter staple! With instructions across our Snag size chart

For a PDF of this pattern that you can download click here

Chonky Cable Cardi Knit Pattern

You will need

  • Sizes AB/C use 3 balls, sizes D/E use 4 balls and F/G/H/I/J use 5 balls of Chonky snag yarn in your favourite colour
  • 15 mm circular needles on 80-100cm cable
  • Large cable needle
  • Scrap yarn in contrast colour to make markers and tie off held stitches
  • Yarn needle


CO – cast on

K – knit

P – purl

St(s) – stitch(es)

in – inches

beg – beginning

rem – remaining

rep – repeat

dec – decrease

inc - increase

rnd(s) – round(s)

K2tog = knit 2 stitches together as though 1, to dec by 1 sts that makes a right slanting dec

Sl = Slip stitch onto the right needle as though to knit but do not work it.

RS = Right side is the presenting side of the garment – the side that will be worn facing outside with the design as it should be.

WS = Wrong side is the inside of the finished garment so the pattern does not appear the same.

Size Guide

Clothes Size

Snag Size

Waist (cm)

Chest (cm)

Chonky yarn needed














































Cable pattern – Simple Twisted Cable

Worked over 8 rnds, 6 row are K, 7th rnd is CF8 and a final row is K to complete one full cable pattern.


CO 60-66-70-76-80-84-90-96-100

Work 4 rows of 1x1 rib (k1,p1)

From now on, we will slip the first st as though to knit and purl the last stitch to make a neat finished edge

Row1 (RS) Sl1, k3, p2, k8, k(8-11-13-16-18-21-23-26-28), k2, p2, k8, p2, k2, k(8-11-13-16-18-21-23-26-28), k8, p2, k3, p1

Row2 (WS) sl1, k3, k2, p8, k(8-11-13-16-18-21-23-26-28), p2, k2, p8, k2, p2, k(8-11-13-16-18-21-23-26-28), p8, k2, k3, p1

Rep rows 1 & 2 twice more (6 rows in total)

Row 7 (RS) cable row: sl1, k3, p2, cf8, k(8-11-13-16-18-21-23-26-28) k2, p2, cf8, p2, k2, k(8-11-13-16-18-21-23-26-28) cf8, p2, k3, p1

Row 8 (WS) rep row 2

Rep full cable pattern (rows 1-8 above) three times more to make 4 cable repeats above the 1x1 rib.

Divide back and sides

Turn piece as though to work but instead we will slip the left side and back onto different stitch holders, or spare yarn, to set aside. The right side should be facing you.

Starting from the left side needle (the last stitches away from the working yarn) slip 17-18-19-21-22-23-25-27-28 sts onto scrap yarn and tie in a bow, or use a stitch holder.

For the back, slip the next 26-30-32-34-36-38-40-42-44 sts onto another piece of scrap yarn and tie in a bow, or another stitch holder.

We will work the right side of the cardigan first, you should have 17-18-19-21-22-23-25-27-28 sts ready to work.

Work the piece in pattern to complete a full 2 cable repeats (16 rows - 2 x 8 rows starting on the R/S row). Always slip the first stitch and purl the last stitch in order to make a neat finished edge.

For sizes AB, C and D work another 1 full cable pattern repeat (8 rows) then work 2 more rows in pattern. You should have 3 cable repeats in total from where the arm openings start.

For sizes E, F and G work 2 full cable repeats (16 rows) then work 2 more rows in pattern. You should have 4 cable repeats in total from where the arm openings start.

For sizes H, I and J work 3 full cable repeats (24 rows) then work 2 more rows in pattern. You should have 5 cable repeats in total from where the arm openings start.

Once stitches for your size are completed, next row bind off with a stretchy/ elastic bind off.

Stretchy Bind off – knit first two stitches but do not drop the loop off the left-side working needle to complete the second stitch, keep the loop there as you slip the first stitch back over the second stitch. Once the slipped stitch is released, you can drop the loop from the left needle to make a much more stretchy bind off. This is a lazier way of doing the traditional elastic bind off, where you knit the first two stitches and then knit the two stitches together through the back loop to bind off with even more stretch.


Sleeves are worked back and forth in rows and sewn together to finish. We will continue to slip the first st and purl the last to make a neat edge for sewing together.

CO 26-26-26-30-30-30-34-34-34 sts and do not join in the round.

Row 1/3/5: [RS] sl1, knit 8-10-12, k8, k 8-10-12, p1

Row 2/4/6/8: [WS] sl1, k 8-10-12, p8, k 8-10-12, p1

Row 7: [RS] sl1, k8-10-12, cf8, k8-10-12, p1

For sizes AB-C-D knit 4 cable repeats (32 rows) in total before beginning decreases.

For sizes E-F-G-H-I-J knit 5 cable repeats (40 rows) in total before beginning decreases.

Sleeve decreases

Knit rows 1-6 as above

Row 7: sl1, k8-10-12, cf8, k6-8-10, k2tog, p1

Row 8: sl1, k7-9-11, p8, k6-8-10, k2tog, p1

Row 9: sl1, k7-9-11, k8, k5-7-9, k2tog, p1

Row 10: sl1, k6-8-10, p8, k5-7-9, k2tog, p1

Row 11: sl1, k6-8-10, k8, k4-6-8, k2tog, p1

Row12: sl1, k5-7-9, p8, k4-6-8, k2tog, p1

You should have reduced by 6 sts in total to leave 20-24-28 sts in the sleeve.

Row 13 [RS]: sl1, k5-7-9, cf8, k5-7-9, p1

Next row: k2tog 3-4-5 times, P 8, K2tog 3-4-5 times more. You should have 14-16-18 sts when complete.

Knit 1x1 rib until the cuff is to the desired length. I do 4 rows.

Bind off with a stretchy elastic bind off, leaving a long tail for joining up the sleeve.

Repeat for second sleeve.


The body – With the body piece inside out, lay the front over the back to choose where to join for the neckline. Line up the front shoulder seam with the back shoulder seam. The edges should line up perfectly at the armhole, but you can adjust the point where you want to have the frontseam end along the backseam. I like to line this up with the beginning of the cable pattern on the back of the cardigan to make a comfy neckline. You may need to compress the front stitches to fit the stitches at the back so that the seam is joined and perfectly flat as we didn’t do any frontside shaping in order to simplify this pattern. Sew the front seam to the backseam using mattress stitch or basic sewing stitch. By sewing inside out you ensure the seams are hidden.

The Sleeves - With the wrong side facing out, line up the two sides and sew together to make the sleeve. Repeat for the second sleeve.

With all pieces inside out, line up the arm seam with the lower part of the body armhole and sew around to join, making sure the like up the centre of the cable on the sleeve with the shoulder seam at the top of the body piece. You may need to compress the arm hole stitches a little to make it fit nicely.

Weave in all your loose ends.

Blocking – Your cardigan will feel and look better if you block it before wearing. Simply soak it in some warm water for around 20-30 minutes before wringing out or putting through the spin cycle of a washing machine. Then lay out flat in perfect position and allow to dry.

Now try on your cardigan and don’t forget to share some pics with us of all your hard work!


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